install time>>
3-4 hours or less when GC coil overs already installed
The performance mods I plan for my max
are simple with the best bang for the buck. Not the least expensive
but what will give me the most return. I have decided to put forth a
lot of effort into the suspension. Let's face it. When being
"Johnny Baddass" it helps if you can "handle"
the part. So my goal is to build the best handling Maxima for the
money. I decided on Stillen Camber plates. to go with my Ground
Control coil overs because I know that when you lower the car, the camber
is affected and will cause poor tire wear. This means more money
spent on tires. And since tires costs lots of dough. This is a great
value mod. Not to mention that this will help fine tune your
handling.
Stillen's (http://www.stillen.com)
camber plates are a must for proper alignment in lowered vehicles.
Its that or keep on replacing your rubber (I think that is more
expensive)
This is for
reference only, I am not liable if you screw your car up. Use
caution and common sense when working on your vehicle. Read the
directions (like you will) use the right tools and use the appropriate
safety equipment.
step
1 getting started
Installing camber plates is not too
difficult with the right tools.
> Floor Jack
> Jack Stands
> 14 mm socket
> 17 mm socket
> 19 mm socket
> ??? size Allen ( I will find out later)
> impact gun (this is a real nice to have)
> spring compressors (if installing on stock or non-coil over set-up)
> torque wrench
> big screwdriver (used as a mini crow bar)
> those proctologists gloves. Clean hand are a good thing.
Make sure you have a nice area to work
in and that you don't need your car for a couple of hours. Use care
in jacking your car up. Refer to your owners manual on points to
lift and support your vehicle. I recommend that you slightly that's
VERY SLIGHTLY loosen your front lug nuts before jacking up for
vehicle.
step 2 removing the unnecessary stuff.
Yes
sports fans I cheated. I had already installed Ground Control Coil
Overs so it makes life a lot easier. I was able to lift the car and remove
the top perch without removing the strut from the vehicle. That
because I haven't decided on which shock to use ( I am leaning towards the
KYB AGX) so for now I have the crappy stock struts. A word to
the wise. DO NOT LOWER YOUR VEHICLE TOO LOW
WITH THE FACTORY SHOCKS. With the GC's if you lower the
front more that 2.75" or the rear more than 1.5" you will
bottom the factory struts. This is an easy way to damage them.
The pictures you see are with the car lowered the above mentioned
amounts. The rear is probable a little lower because of the weight
of the stereo. The reason is simple as you can see in the pic in the left
the factory strut is too long once you lower the GC spring perch. So
your actual travel is quite a bit less than you would image. The pic
on the right shows what parts the Stillen camber plate replaces.
Good bye!
step 3 set the plate
Before you install the plate you must the adjustment Allens.
Otherwise you will hit them in the shock tower and that would be
bad. Once you do that you are ready to mount them in the shock
towers.
step 4 aligning the plates
Put
the plates in the right side of the vehicle. See the little marks
engraved on the tops. Put the 14 mm mounting nuts and and lightly
torque them in. Using your big screwdriver, align the hole for the
shock such that the post will easily slide up. (sounds kinda pornographic)
Now put the little top washer on the shock post and compress the shock and
allow it so slide up into the hole. Finger tight install the top
bolt. (This part sucks) as best you can. Since you do not have
that nice d mount in the camber plate the shock post will want to
turn. This is where the impact gun comes in. Hold the shock
post while you tighten the top nut with the impact gun. If you do
not have one, This will really suck. You will probably have do
attach the camber plate to the shock outside the vehicle. which
means you will have to remove the strut from the vehicle. (Add a
couple of hours)
step 5 torque all the stuff together
Once the hard part is done, go back and check all the bolts to make sure
they are tightened. This is very important. Loose bolts in the
suspension will negate all the performance improvements and may
potentially damage parts or worse cause you to lose control and
wreck. Please check and double check. Then mount your wheels
back on and lower carfully. Once on the ground, do a low speed low
"G" test run. If all is ok, take it to get aligned. If you
want best tire wear use the factory camber specs. For Johnny Baddass',
1.5 to 2 degrees negative camber should be a good starting point.
The more camber the more tire wear. You be the judge. ENJOY!
stillen
camber plates
step
1 getting started 
Yes
sports fans I cheated. I had already installed Ground Control Coil
Overs so it makes life a lot easier. I was able to lift the car and remove
the top perch without removing the strut from the vehicle. That
because I haven't decided on which shock to use ( I am leaning towards the
KYB AGX) so for now I have the crappy stock struts. A word to
the wise. DO NOT LOWER YOUR VEHICLE TOO LOW
WITH THE FACTORY SHOCKS. With the GC's if you lower the
front more that 2.75" or the rear more than 1.5" you will
bottom the factory struts. This is an easy way to damage them.
The pictures you see are with the car lowered the above mentioned
amounts. The rear is probable a little lower because of the weight
of the stereo. The reason is simple as you can see in the pic in the left
the factory strut is too long once you lower the GC spring perch. So
your actual travel is quite a bit less than you would image. The pic
on the right shows what parts the Stillen camber plate replaces.
Good bye! 
Before you install the plate you must the adjustment Allens.
Otherwise you will hit them in the shock tower and that would be
bad. Once you do that you are ready to mount them in the shock
towers. 
Put
the plates in the right side of the vehicle. See the little marks
engraved on the tops. Put the 14 mm mounting nuts and and lightly
torque them in. Using your big screwdriver, align the hole for the
shock such that the post will easily slide up. (sounds kinda pornographic)
Now put the little top washer on the shock post and compress the shock and
allow it so slide up into the hole. Finger tight install the top
bolt. (This part sucks) as best you can. Since you do not have
that nice d mount in the camber plate the shock post will want to
turn. This is where the impact gun comes in. Hold the shock
post while you tighten the top nut with the impact gun. If you do
not have one, This will really suck. You will probably have do
attach the camber plate to the shock outside the vehicle. which
means you will have to remove the strut from the vehicle. (Add a
couple of hours) 
Once the hard part is done, go back and check all the bolts to make sure
they are tightened. This is very important. Loose bolts in the
suspension will negate all the performance improvements and may
potentially damage parts or worse cause you to lose control and
wreck. Please check and double check. Then mount your wheels
back on and lower carfully. Once on the ground, do a low speed low
"G" test run. If all is ok, take it to get aligned. If you
want best tire wear use the factory camber specs. For Johnny Baddass',
1.5 to 2 degrees negative camber should be a good starting point.
The more camber the more tire wear. You be the judge. ENJOY!